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Windbreaks

Windbreaks have been a part of Iowa's forest since settlement. 
During the 1930's, establishment of windbreaks for farmstead protection was very intensive; at one time, the goal of the windbreak program was to establish a demonstration windbreak in every township in the state to encourage additional windbreak planting. These windbreaks functioned into the 1960's, when, because of low energy costs and high farmland values, many of them were removed. Renewed interests in windbreaks surfaced during the energy crisis of the 1970's and continues today.  

Windbreaks provide many benefits. 
Windbreaks reduce wind speeds, control snow drifting and accumulation in farmsteads, provide wildlife habitat, enhance farmstead value, and provide a more pleasant environment. Reduced wind speeds in winter months provide monetary benefits. Homes or confinement buildings require 7 to 25 percent less fuel for heating. Livestock protected by a windbreak are 3-7 percent more efficient in conversion of feed to weight gain. Other benefits of windbreaks are measured in quality of life improvement.  

Check out our publication on Windbreaks for Wildlife.

Windbreaks should be properly designed and located for maximum benefits. 
Some basis design considerations follow:

  • Plant a minimum of three rows; additional rows up to 8-11 rows will improve protection and increase benefits.
  • Incorporate conifers as the major tree in the windbreak where soil conditions allow. Deciduous trees are only 5-20 percent as effective as conifers.
  • Locate on the north and west site of the property; avoid surrounding the farmstead with a solid barrier of trees.
  • Use several different species in the windbreak; plant within rows in blocks to minimize competition caused by different growth rates. For example, one half of the first row could be Norway spruce with the other half blue spruce.
  • The distance between all rows should be at least 20 feet; the spacing between trees/shrubs within a row will vary from 4 to 20 feet depending on mature size of the species.
  • For optimum wind lift, plant the tallest trees inside and the shortest shrubs on the upwind (north and west) side of the windbreak.
  • The inside row of the windbreak should be 50 feet away from the protected site (to minimize snow accumulation) or with wider windbreaks 100 feet from the outside rows. The greatest wind protection will occur closest to the windbreak. Protection becomes minimal at 15 to 20 times the height of the windbreak.
  • If snow accumulation is a serious problem, use a double row of shrubs on the outside of the windbreak spaced at least 30-40 feet apart.
  • Where possible, take advantage of contours and locate the windbreak uphill from the protected site; height is relative for most wind protection.

The standard L-shaped, square corner windbreak can be modified. Trees can planted in groups instead of rows. Corners can be rounded or merged together. The key for optimum protection is providing wind protection on the NW quadrant.

Other Resources: 

Farmstead Windbreaks: Planning

Farmstead Windbreaks: Establishment, Care, and Maintenance

White-tailed Deer: Damage Management

With their large size, conspicuous habits, and distinctive tracks and scat, white-tailed deer are probably the easiest animals to pinpoint as a potential threat to plant growth. Indeed, you can often witness the actual offense taking place when the culprit is a deer. But unlike birds and small mammals, which tend to inflict most of their damage around the farmyard itself, deer pose a more widespread problem because they also feed on crops (particularly corn) and trees (such as in orchards) in the far reaches of the property.

Damage and losses caused by white-tailed deer in Iowa

  • Consume corn and soybeans in agricultural fields, causing economic losses.
  • Eat leaves and twigs of trees and shrubs in yards, orchards, and tree farms, sometimes causing permanent disfigurement or death of plants.
  • Enter yards and consume landscape and garden plants.
  • Eat stored feed intended for livestock.
  • Collide with automobiles on roadways, leading to vehicle damage and injury or death of motorists.
  • Stunt forest regeneration by over-browsing seedlings of oaks, hickories and other trees.

Identifying deer damage

Whether in a distant corn field or a row of fruit trees along your garden, deer damage can be directly identified by the jagged (uneven) marks they leave after tearing off the growing portions of plants. These signs differ considerably from the more sharply defined cuttings left by rabbits and some other small mammals, which have both upper and lower front teeth that enable them to cleanly snip vegetation. Deer can exploit just about any type of plant on your property but their greatest impact is more prominent along edges where they spend most of their time.

Deer, like all herbivores, prefer actively growing portions of plants, like shoots, buds, and sprouts. On growing corn, deer target the newest, greenest growth from when the corn is just a few inches tall all the way to the end of the growing season. They become even more determined when the corn reaches about 2.5 feet in height, which is a very comfortable eating height for both bucks and female deer. This habit of feeding higher on the plant helps distinguish deer from other animals that knock corn over or eat lower on the plant. Deer continue to target the newest shoots on the stems at this height, often leaving the horizontal leaves intact. Weeks later, the deer shift to pulling freshly emerged kernels from the cobs, which can in turn lead to obvious stunting and infection of the cob for the remainder of the season. When the corn becomes more fully developed, deer will chew off big chunks from healthy cobs that escaped earlier attacks. Although deer feed on different portions of the plant in different ways across the year, the damage remains distinctive and easy to separate from other cropland intruders, like raccoons or beavers.

Managing the negative impacts of white-tailed deer

Population control

White-tailed deer are a popular game species in Iowa, and consistent harvest of adult female deer can be an effective way to control their population and thus their impacts on farms and forests. Landowners can help maintain the balance of local deer populations by taking advantage of established seasons to allow hunters to legally harvest deer from their property. This is especially relevant for landowners who live in areas with high deer densities, like heavily forested areas or areas adjacent to refuges like cities. Special harvest seasons and tags are available to landowners who have high economic losses to deer that cannot be controlled through regular hunting seasons. Contact a Wildlife Depredation Biologist from the Iowa Department of Natural Resources for more information on those tags and other services this program provides to address deer damage.

Exclusion

The surest way to prevent deer damage issues is to exclude them from crops or landscapes where they may do harm. There are several options for keeping deer our of the areas where they cause damage.

Small-scale exclosures. In the farmyard or similar settings, an effective, targeted approach is to place woven-wire cylinders around young trees and shrubs (and around the trunks of larger trees) to prevent deer from browsing on the twigs and fruit or damaging the trunk with their antlers. This widely used, cost-effective method also helps to keep pesky rabbits off of these plants. Modern snow fencing, which is comparatively inexpensive and simple to install, can also be used in the same way to exclude deer and rabbits from single or multiple plants, such as clusters of shrubs or fruit trees.

example of protection against deer and rabbit damage
Wrapping young trees can protect them from deer as well as rabbits.

Deer exclusion with pallets and with snow fence
Sometimes creative solutions are needed to protect trees from deer, such as the pallet that protected the tree on the left and the drift fence protecting tree plantings on the right.

Fences. The most effective means of reducing deer damage on broader portions of your property is by constructing fences around vulnerable areas, such as crop fields, larger vegetable gardens, and orchards that span multiple acres. Fencing can be expensive and highly labor intensive, but will eliminate deer problems if constructed and maintained appropriately. The first line of defense selected by many landowners involves the installation of passive exclusion fencing that does not involve any sort of electrical charge as a deterrent. The design can vary somewhat depending on the terrain, but some tried-and-true specifications help to keep deer from going under, over, or through any openings. Regardless of the setting, a passive-exclusion fence must be at least 8 feet in height to prevent deer from leaping over them – and provide a barrier all the way to the ground to keep deer from ducking beneath. To accommodate these upper and lower barriers, you can install tall (16-foot) poles – anchored 4-6 feet into the ground – and space them at intervals of about 40 feet. String multiple strands of high-tensile wire or tall welded-wire fencing between the poles.

woven wire deer fence
Woven wire deer fence.

Active-exclusion fences use electricity to keep deer from entering. When deciding what type of active-exclusion fence to use, consider whether deer need to be excluded year round or just seasonally and how large the area of exclusion needs to be.

Temporary electric fencing can be less expensive and easier to install than permanent fences. Research has shown that products using synthetic rope or ribbon with conductive wires running through can be highly effective for reducing deer damage. These types of fences are generally only useful for areas smaller than 40 acres but they can be put up and taken down fairly easily if they are only needed at certain times of the year. Short electric fences can be effective in discouraging deer from entering small patches or gardens, but need to be tall or angled to prevent entry into larger (more than 100 square feet) patches. The number of strands necessary to deter deer can vary depending on how motivated the deer in the area were. Applying thinned peanut butter to synthetic fence at deer nose height can increase effectiveness, as deer will learn quickly that the fence is electrified.

small scale electric fence around sweetcorn patch
Short electric fences can be effective in discouraging deer from entering small areas like sweet corn patches and gardens. 

​​​Permanent electric fencing is more costly and can be labor intensive but methods for installing them are becoming less difficult. High-tensile electric fences seem to be the most effective permanent electric fencing option. Three different set-ups are often used: 5 foot vertical 5 strand, 5 foot 6-7 strand slanted, and 3.5 ft offset or double fence. Research has shown that the 5 foot vertical 5 strand fence is often most effective. 

Note: The effectiveness of any fence will vary greatly in different settings. Adjusting the height and number of strands on temporary fences can be useful based on the level of deer pressure in your area. Additionally, research has shown that removing a few deer that habitually get through a fence can often be effective.

five foot vertical fence diagram

A 5 strand electric fence with a hight of 5 feet is tall enough to discourage deer from trying to access an area. Diagram adapted from VerCauteren et al. 2006. Fences and Deer-Damage Management: A Review of Designs and Efficacy. Wildlife Society Bulletin 34(1). 

five foot slanted fence diagram

Building an electric fence that is both tall and wide like the slanted style is effective because deer cannot jump as high when they are also trying to clear a wide distance. Slanted fences can be built so they lift up to make mowing easier. Diagram adapted from VerCauteren et al. 2006. Fences and Deer-Damage Management: A Review of Designs and Efficacy. Wildlife Society Bulletin 34(1). 

offset fence diagram

The offset style electric fence is a shorter option that still prevents deer from accessing an area because it is too wide for the deer to jump across. Diagram adapted from VerCauteren et al. 2006. Fences and Deer-Damage Management: A Review of Designs and Efficacy. Wildlife Society Bulletin 34(1).  

Learn more

For more information check out the Iowa DNR Wildlife Damage Management page. There you can find an article on identifying crop damageabatement techniques to deal with damage, and information on options available to producers with deer damage. Nebraska also has a useful publication on deer damage management.


This article is an update of "Managing Iowa Wildlife: White-tailed deer" (PM-1302g) originally authored by Lynne Fischer, William Clark, and James Pease.

A Conservationist's Christmas List

November 14, 2018 8:20 AM

For many of us, conservation is our way of life. Finding ways to connect with and improve the land, the soil, the water, and wildlife consumes our thoughts and free time. If you have someone in your life that shares that same passion, here’s a few ideas for brightening their Holiday Season....

To continue reading this article on the Acreage Living Newsletter, click here.

Start a Legacy this Autumn

September 20, 2019 12:00 PM

Hello Iowans! My name is Billy Beck - your new Forestry Specialist with Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. I hail from the Midwest, having earned my Bachelor’s degree in Forestry from Michigan State University, my Master’s degree in Forest Hydrology from Southern Illinois University at Carbondale, and my Ph.D. in Environmental Science (water quality emphasis) from Iowa State. I am honored to serve the people, forests, and water resources of “the land between the rivers” in my new role. I am also elated, as this position offers the opportunity to pursue my two passions – forestry and water quality! Feel free to follow our efforts on the ISU Extension Forestry webpage, Twitter, and Instagram accounts.

To continue reading this article the Acreage Living Newsletter, click here.

Roles of trees may change from Lee to Lyon, but their value to Iowa farmers doesn’t waver

November 22, 2019 4:17 PM

One of my first exposures to Iowa came in the form of a motorcycle ride my Dad and I took across northwest Iowa in 2014. As we roared across the landscape, my mind was actively engaged in “70 mph forestry”. I delighted in the streamside timber lining the valleys of the Big Sioux, Little Sioux, and Floyd Rivers. Even more impressive than these water-cleaning beauties, however, was the prevalence of windbreaks and shelterbelts working to protect the region’s homes, farmsteads, and livestock. Looking back to that ride, I now realize that although roles of trees may change across our state, be it 300 acres of timber in Lee County or a shelterbelt protecting 300 head in Lyon, their strong value to Iowa agriculture does not waver.  

As far as trees acting as assets to farm enterprises, windbreaks and shelterbelts represent top practices for northwest Iowa producers. Both practices entail single or multiple rows of trees or shrubs arranged in linear configurations - “linear forests”, as some folks say. Shelterbelts protect our homes, outbuildings, and feedlots again temperature extremes – decreasing heating and cooling costs, as well as improving livestock gains. Windbreaks benefit our crop fields through reduced soil erosion from wind, increased moisture retention, and protection from wind-related damage. In addition, both practices boost aesthetics, wildlife habitat, carbon sequestration, and even water quality across our landscape.

You may have windbreaks or shelterbelts already established, but are they doing their job? Performance can, and does, decrease over time as plantings age and decline. Windbreak / shelterbelt renovation is an absolutely critical, yet often overlooked, practice necessary to maintain peak performance. Pruning, thinning, planting, and row additions act to maximize functionality and allow for resilience in the face of climatic, insect and disease, and herbivory stressors. As with all forestry practices, monitoring and maintenance are key – you can’t just plant, walk away, and expect success!

Trees can be challenging to grow and maintain, but the rewards are worth it. District Foresters and Forestry Specialists with the Iowa Department of Natural Resources can provide the technical expertise required for successful projects. ISUEO Forestry and the Natural Resources Stewardship Team provide online resources, as well as in-field programming and educational events. Cost share for establishment and renovation may be available through the Conservation Reserve Program (CRP), Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP), and Resource Enhancement and Protection (REAP) – see your county USDA Service Center for details. In closing, I am thrilled for the opportunity to promote windbreaks and shelterbelts across northwest Iowa. Join me on the leeward side of one in mid-January, and I’ll let you be the ultimate judge of their value!

Additional Resources:

Farmstead Windbreaks: Planning

Farmstead Windbreaks: Establishment, Care, and Maintenance

Windbreaks for Wildlife

Fall Planting of Bare Root Seedlings

Many nurseries make available bare-root planting stock for either spring or fall planting. Spring is still the optimum time to plant bare-root material in Iowa, but several factors may encourage a fall planting. First, fall planting allows access to some sites, such as bottomlands or wet areas, which may not be suitable for spring planting. Second, fall planting occurs during a time when more labor may be available, and thus more care can be taken in planting. Third, fall planting allows you to spread your workload over two seasons during the year.

Both conifer and deciduous species can be planted in the fall. As with spring planting of bare-root seedlings, initial survival depends on the regeneration of a fine root system to replace the roots that died or were lost during the lifting process. Because of their evergreen habit, conifers may develop new root growth after fall planting if soil temperatures remain above 50° F. However, if sufficient new root growth does not occur, the seedlings may be subject to winter drying. This drying occurs because the root system cannot supply the water demands of the green needles on the occasional warm winter days when photosynthesis and transpiration are active. Most success with conifers has occurred when they are planted early (September). In general, fall planting of conifers has been significantly less successful than spring planting. Where possible, plant conifers during the spring planting season. Hardwoods are not as apt to grow new roots, but they are also not subject to the same environmental stresses during winter because they have no leaves. Based on limited experience in Iowa, fall planting success has been greater with hardwoods than conifers.

Fall-lifted seedlings may be more perishable than spring-lifted ones because they have not satisfied their winter dormancy requirements. Proper storage and handling are critical for planting success. Seedlings should be planted as soon as they are received from the nursery. If short-term storage is required, seedlings should be stored at 35-42° F. Temporary storage at warmer temperatures may result in significant mortality.

The time period for planting may be shorter in the fall than spring. Generally, the month of October is the best period for fall planting of hardwoods and September for conifers, but this can vary by individual year. Recent experiences with fall planting hardwoods in Iowa has shown that success is fairly good when planted after October 1 and continuing into the fall until soil frost formation begins. With conifers, two approaches have been tried. One is early planting, during September and into the middle of October. This early planting will provide the weather conditions needed to begin regeneration of the root system. The other approach is to plant the seedlings late in October to the middle of November when growing conditions are no longer favorable for root growth. These conditions simulate cooler storage conditions. This latter approach may work if the winter is continuously cold with no warm spells until spring. If, however, there is a week of warm weather at the end of January or in February, the late planted seedlings will be very susceptible to winter drying. Most success has been achieved with early planting of conifers. Overall, conifer planting in the spring is more successful than fall planting; this is mostly attributed to Iowa’svariable winters with periods of warm conditions, resulting in moisture loss and desiccation of the new seedling.

Some other considerations for fall planting include:

  • Soak the root system of seedlings in water for 4 to 6 hours prior to planting if a root gel has not been applied. Application of root gels will reduce root drying and may be applied at the nursery or by the planter. Water soaking of roots already dipped in gel will wash the gel off.
  • Consider spraying or dipping the foliage with anti-transpirants. These provide a thin layer of material that reduces transpiration on occasional warm winter days. The material breaks down by the time spring growth begins and is therefore not harmful to the plant. Before applying your own anti-transpirants check to see that the nursery has not already treated the seedlings.
  • Plant seedlings on sites where competing plant material has been removed on a minimum of 4-foot wide strips. Leave other plant cover between the strips to provide some protection from desiccating winds. The 4-foot wide clear rows are wide enough to discourage rodents from girdling the seedlings. If there is an especially high rodent population and/or deer population consider the application of repellants.
  • If feasible, late fall watering will aid seedling establishment, reduce frost heaving on heavy clay soils, and reduce winter drying of newly planted seedlings, especially conifers. Mulching with an organic mulch will provide some of the same benefits.

Fall planting of bare-root seedlings in Iowa is a landowner’s option, but it will require greater attention to detail for success. Many foresters do not recommend fall planting of bare-root conifers because of the temperature extremes during Iowa’s winters.


This article is a web-based modification of the original publication "F-355 Fall Planting of Bare Root Seedlings" prepared by former ISU Extension Forester Paul H. Wray.

Transplanting Trees and Shrubs

Transplanting or moving trees or shrubs from one location to another site is a major operation from which most plants recover slowly. Transplanting, regard-less of how carefully performed, results in the destruction of a large portion of the absorbing root area. It is imperative that the digging, moving, and replanting operations are carried out with the least possible damage to the residual root system.

Timing

The recommended time for moving trees and shrubs is during the dormant season. Early spring is generally the best time to transplant; conditions should be ideal for rapid root growth. Digging should be done when the soil is moist and when the plant is not under moisture stress. If transplanting in the fall, conifers move best early (late August through September) and hardwoods move better after they are dormant.

Methods

Plants are either moved “bare-root” or “balled-and-burlapped” (with an intact soil ball). Bare-root transplanting is usually limited to deciduous shrubs and small deciduous trees (up to two inches in diameter); bare-root transplanting should always be done in early spring. Balling-and-burlapping is favored for: all evergreens; trees greater than two inches in diameter; deciduous shrubs and trees moved during the growing season; and deciduous trees and shrubs considered difficult to transplant. Even though many plants may be moved balled-and-burlapped during any time of year, the greatest success is achieved by transplanting during the dormant season.

Size of Soil Ball

The size of the soil ball dug depends primarily upon the size of the plant to be moved. A general guide for determining the diameter of the soil ball for different plant types and sizes is given in Table 1. Plant species, soil type, and post-planting care may slightly modify the recommended diameter of the soil ball. Species that are difficult to move should have a larger soil ball diameter than those that are more easily transplanted. Heavier soils (clays and clay loams) are preferred when moving trees and shrubs because the soil ball holds together much better than coarse textured soils. Loose, sandy soils may make transplanting with balled-and-burlapped techniques very difficult or even impossible. Trees and shrubs that are guaranteed to receive exceptionally good post-planting care may be moved with slightly smaller soil ball than the minimum recommended.

The depth of soil ball is also important and should be sufficient to hold the majority of fibrous roots and to provide mechanical support. In the Principles and Practices of Planting Trees and Shrubs by Gary W. Watson and E. B. Himelick, the following recommendations are given for depth of soil ball based on diameter of the soil ball:

Ball Diameter Ball Depth
Less than 20 inches 75% of width
20-30 inches 67% of width
31-40 inches 60% of width

Procedures for Balling-and-burlapping

Equipment needed to prepare soil balls includes a spade, burlap, 6- or 8-penny nails, and heavy twine. Hand carts are useful for moving larger, heavier soil balls. Digging is generally made easier if the branches of the plant are tied in with twine.

  1. Remove sod or loose material from around the plant using care to avoid injuring or cutting surface roots.
  2. Mark a circle about six inches greater than the diameter of the desired finished ball to allow for final trimming and shaping. Working with the back of the spade toward the plant, cut straight down to a depth of 9 to 12 inches around the marked circle. Using the spade in this way prevents prying up uncut roots and loosening the soil ball. Sever large roots with a sharp pair of loppers; cutting such roots with a spade tends to jar the roots and loosen the soil ball.
  3. Dig a trench beyond the circle to a depth equal to about three-fourths of the ball depth.
  4. Shape the soil ball by rounding off the top edge of the ball making a uniformly tapered, nearly oval ball.
  5. After removing loose soil from the trench, undercut the ball at a 45° angle to sever all remaining roots.

Smaller soil balls can be lifted from the hole on a piece of burlap. Place burlap beneath the soil ball by tilting the ball and tucking rolled burlap under it; tilt the ball in the opposite direction and unroll the burlap under the ball. Two people grasping the corners of the burlap can then lift the soil ball and plant from the hole. A tree or shrub should never be lifted from the hole by pulling on the stem or top.

This manual procedure should work well for smaller soil balls. But moving plants that require soil balls greater than 24 inches in diameter will generally require use of mechanical equipment and may indicate the need for the services of a professional. Soil balls rapidly increase in weight as the diameter and depth increase. A 12-inch soil ball may weigh between 30 and 60 pounds, a 24-inch ball may weigh between 250 and 400 pounds, and a 36-inch ball could weigh more than 1,000 pounds.

With the ball centered on the burlap diagonal corners of the burlap are pulled tightly across the top of the ball, and each pair is pinned in place with six- or eight-penny nails. Loose folds of burlap are tightened by pleating and pinning them in place. Take care to bury nail points to avoid injury. Large soil balls or those with sandy soil should be tied with cord or rope for reinforcement.

Plants should not be exposed to excessive drying after digging. Place the balled-and-burlapped plants in a shaded area, and cover the soil ball with moistened wood chips or damp straw to keep the plants in good condition until replanting.

Table 1. Recommended minimum diameter of soil ball for trees and shrubs. (from Principles and Practice of Planting Trees and Shrubs by Gary Watson and E.B. Himelick, International Society of Arboriculture.)

Caliper (inches)1 Minimum Height (feet) 2 Ball Diameter (inches)
  1 8
  2 10
1/2 3 12
3/4 4 14
1 5 16
1 1/2 6 20
2 7 24
2 1/2 9 28
3 10 32
3 1/2 13 38
4 17 42
5   54
63    

1 Caliper of the trunk measured 6 inches above the ground up to and including 4 inch size, and 12 inches above the ground for larger sizes.

For small trees up to 5 feet, deciduous shrubs up to 9 feet, and columnar evergreens over 3 feet. Root balls of conical evergreens and broadleaf evergreens are at least one size larger.

Trees 6 inches and greater caliper should have a root ball of 10 inches diameter per inch of trunk caliper, that is, a 7 inch tree should have a 70 inch diameter root ball.


This article is a web-based modification of the original publication "F-359 Transplanting Trees and Shrubs" prepared by former ISU extension horticulturist Jeff Iles and former ISU extension forester Paul H. Wray. 

Winter '22 programs seek to start the Iowa Windbreak Renaissance!

January 6, 2022 9:48 AM

Iowa needs a Windbreak Renaissance!

The Iowa wind never ceases to impress me! My recent travels across the state have made one thing clear – Iowa is in desperate need of a windbreak renaissance. Windbreaks and shelterbelts act as critical farm infrastructure – providing energy savings, livestock growth gains, timber and non-timber forest products, wildlife habitat, odor and dust control, aesthetics, and privacy. However, Iowa’s aging windbreaks are simply not functioning as they should be, due to general decline, storm damage, and insect and disease issues. Also, I “see” non-existent windbreaks in locations where they could have incredible value. To help guide recovery and resilience, consider the following tips for three common windbreak scenarios.

Scenario 1: Spotty/isolated decline or damage

Here, start by assessing the status of individual impacted trees. Snapped or split stems and/or loss of >50% of the canopy may warrant removal. Consider, however, that interplanting or replacement of individual trees will be tough, as most Iowa windbreak species (especially conifers) are shade-intolerant (i.e., they don’t grow well in shade). Assess the size and spacing of the residual trees and gaps, and ask yourself whether neighboring trees have capacity to fill the voids. If so, removal of damaged trees and proper pruning of residuals to prevent disease and decay may be the best strategy.

Scenario 2: Large gaps, row additions needed

If large gaps exist (or will be, following removals), functionality is severely compromised (Photo 1). In this scenario, neighboring trees will not be able to fill gaps, and it’s time to consider adding new rows. Number of row additions will depend on current windbreak design and your objectives. Often, folks decide to keep residual large trees for aesthetics and structural diversity, then remove once new rows have attained functional height and crown closure.  

Iowa windbreak with large storm-damage gap, resulting in reduced functionality.

Photo 1. Growth from residual trees will be unable to fill large gaps such as this. Situations such as these may warrant addition of new rows to restore functionality. Photo credit Mark Vitosh, IDNR.

Scenario 3: Complete replant/establishment of new windbreak

In many cases, damage or decline is so severe that starting over from scratch is required. Design (e.g., number of rows, spacing) and species selection will depend heavily on your site conditions and objectives, thus no cookbook recipe exists. However, it is essential to match species to soil and site conditions. Selecting the right species will encourage a long-lived, vigorous, and functional windbreak. Second, go for species diversity! Windbreaks comprised of one or two species are more vulnerable to insects, disease, storms, and other stressors. Monocultural planting of non-native blue, white, and Black Hills spruce, for example, has led to widespread loss of functionality within Iowa windbreaks (Photo 2). Selecting conifers for Iowa windbreaks is tough, as our state has only a handful of native evergreens. Conifers that perform best in Iowa windbreaks include: eastern redcedar and white pine (both native to Iowa), and northern white cedar, Norway spruce, and white fir (all non-native to Iowa, but hardy).    

Non-native spruce in severe decline due to needle cast fungus.

Photo 2. Non-native spruce in severe decline due to needle cast fungus. Non-native conifers like blue, white, and Black Hills spruce, frequently exhibit low vigor and are prone to disease issues. Photo credit ISU Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic (PIDC).

Lastly, consider wildlife and pollinators during your design and species selection. Incorporating rows of native shrubs and hardwood trees with varying mature sizes will add critical structural diversity, cover, and food to benefit a range of species. In working landscapes, windbreaks often represent invaluable oases of critical habitat.   

Timing and Resources

As spring is the recommended season to establish conifers, late summer through winter is the prime planning period for windbreak renovation and establishment. Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) staff provide windbreak renovation and establishment technical service, and should be an initial point of contact. Cost share programs exist as well, notably the Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP) and the Resource Enhancement and Protection (REAP) program. Professional foresters with the Iowa Department of Natural Resources, as well as private forestry consultants, are other valuable resources. Get with these pros and start the renaissance!

Additional resources may be found on the ISU Extension Forestry website, and by viewing a recent CropsTV! woodlands and windbreak recovery video.

Four “Windbreak School” programs will be held in-person across the state this winter - three Crop Advantage Series events: Ankeny (1/12), Cedar Falls (1/13), and Atlantic (1/20), and a more in-depth workshop in Tama County on 2/8 (free event, open to all). If unable to attend in person, watch for the forthcoming CropsTV!  “Windbreak School” webinar that will be available in late winter on our archived video page. Check the “Upcoming Forestry Events” page on the ISU Extension Forestry website for details on this series, and other Extension Forestry events.

Windbreak School: Establishment, Management, Renovation workshop

Tuesday, February 8, 2022 - 6:30pm to 8:30pm

Iowa is in desperate need of a windbreak renaissance. Windbreaks and shelterbelts act as critical farm infrastructure – providing energy savings, livestock growth gains, timber and non-timber forest products, wildlife habitat, odor and dust control, aesthetics, and privacy. However, Iowa’s aging windbreaks are simply not functioning as they should be, due to general decline, storm damage, and insect and disease issues. Read more about Windbreak School: Establishment, Management, Renovation workshop

"My Windbreak needs a Windbreak" - lessons from my 2022 tree struggles

March 31, 2023 9:05 AM

I had seven years of pent-up tree planting desire and it all erupted in spring of 2022. After years of apartment living (as an adult graduate student) and then derecho cleanup, I was finally able to get some trees in the ground at our new place in central Iowa. We wanted a windbreak that favored songbirds, fruit trees, native shade trees, and a range of native shrubs for edibles and pollinators. The year 2022 had other things in mind, however, and the dream soon turned into six months of extreme frustration. “The greatest teacher, failure is” – as Yoda states in The Last Jedi, so in retrospect I am thankful for 2022 as it provided tremendous learning opportunities. Thus, as spring 2023 planting season approaches, I want to share my top tree struggles and lessons learned from 2022, in hopes that you do not repeat them. However, I’ll also highlight some of the things I did correctly – actions that saved me from total disaster.

 

First, let’s review the situation. Spring 2022 was not ideal for getting trees in the ground – prolonged cold weather and wet soils pushed my plantings way late. Following planting, one month of extreme sustained wind speeds led to foliage “burn”, exasperated transplant shock, and complete removal of newly-emerged leaves on my fruit trees. Later, the winds brought herbicide drift issues. The wind was killing my new windbreak (literally), hence the title of this article! Spring conditions were also optimal for Japanese beetle larvae, setting up one of the worst summer defoliation episodes I’d ever witnessed. Lastly, of course, we had essentially no precipitation between July and August. The cherry on top was increased work and family commitments during that time – not much left for my seedlings.

 

OK, below are my “top 5 goofs” from 2022, along with a quick review of the resulting lessons learned (see Table 1 as well). Please feel free to take any/all into consideration during your 2023 planting endeavors.

 

Bit off way more that I could chew

 

Proper stock selection, site prep, planting, protection, weed control, irrigation, etc., are absolutely critical, and all take significant time – more time than you think. You can’t simply plant and walk away. Be aware of this when planning the number of acres or seedlings to tackle. Be realistic about your available time – I didn’t, and thus suffered from “tree burnout” as the year progressed. Professional forestry consultants and contractors ARE available to assist with efforts that you can’t accomplish solo. You may connect with these professionals using the ISU Extension Forestry Contacts webtool.

 

Didn’t order stock soon enough

 

As fall 2021 had me focused on continued cleanup following the 2020 derecho, I waited until mid-spring 2022 to order my stock. I was WAY late – nurseries around the region were sold out of most of my desired species and sizes. I did get seedlings and sizes to get the job done, but they were not ideal. Not ideal means added labor down the road. Wait a year and make sure you get exactly what you need – you won’t miss that 1 year of growth 15 years down the road. If you’re planning a spring planning, secure your stock in fall!

 

Last-minute site prep

 

See 2.) above, in that I did not take the time to properly prepare the site months in advance. I was planting into cool-season, sod-forming grass, which is highly competitive with young seedlings for moisture. Ideally, you need to control competitive vegetation well in advance of planting, because this often takes multiple rounds and/or a combination of mechanical and chemical treatments – these take time. See this publication for tips on site preparation. After reading this, you’ll see that expecting to show up at planting time and immediately release the site from competitive vegetation is not realistic. In my rush, I ended up using a garden spade to remove a 2’x2’ section of sod prior to planting each seedling. It got the job done, but at the expense of my future joint health.

 

No plan for irrigation

 

Not much description needed here, I simply did not have a “drought plan” in place! This meant hours of lugging 5-gallon buckets to individual seedlings by hand. I don’t recommend this technique. Irrigation method depends on your available resources. However, just make sure you CAN irrigate the seedlings you plant. This is absolutely critical for the first 2-3 years as root systems establish. As a general rule in the growing season, if you’re not receiving an inch of rain per week, it’s time to irrigate. Helpful tips on when (and how much) to water may be seen at this link. After reading this, think about the time it will take to water 1 seedling appropriately, and then multiply by the number of acres or seedlings in your plan. After that math, re-read 1.) above!

 

Didn’t drop cash for seedling protection

 

Deer, rabbits, rodents, lawnmowers, intoxicated neighbors – protecting seedlings from physical injury and herbivory is critical. In most cases, the cost and time commitment of properly establishing a seedling warrants a protective structure. Tactics depend on the scale of planting, and may include tree shelters, cages, fencing, and even fear-based liquid deterrents. Don’t skimp here – drop the cash to get the proper gear, and have it ready to go prior to planting. Being cheap (I have boots from 2012 and a 22-year-old motorcycle), I ended up caging my trees after-the-fact, which led to not-insignificant herbivory between planting and caging. Also, I dumpster-dived for cage material, which included wire mesh, t-posts, old rebar from construction projects, and even 70s-era fencing pulled from my neighbor’s ravines. All of the above took hours, and I still did not achieve the cage height and dimensions I wanted to protect from deer. Drop the cash, get the good stuff – it’s worth your time! To learn more on protecting seedlings from deer, check out this resource.

 

OK, even with all that, I do consider my 2022 tree plantings to be successes. I actually did a number of things right, and these really saved me and my seedlings – here’s a quick recap (see Table 1 as well). First, I selected species that matched my site conditions. I went beyond online soil maps and actually took physical soil samples to ensure future seedling vigor. Second, I called nurseries to see where their stock seed source came from, so even though I had to go out of state to order, I was able to obtain stock suitable for Iowa’s climate. Third, I used mulch – which absolutely saved me in droughty July and August. Mulching around seedlings acted to retain what moisture was available, and gave me a buffer to mitigate my lack of irrigation planning. Fourth, I was diligent as far as monitoring and maintenance (e.g., weed control). I’ll bet I walked my trees at least 4 times a week (excessive perhaps, but often a stress reliever). Simply planting and walking away would not have allowed me to be an adaptive manager. Fifth, I developed patience. This was the most difficult of all, and is exemplified by the significant transplant shock I noticed in my eastern redcedars early on (spoiler alert, the cedars did rebound). Learn more about transplant shock at this link.

 

The biggest lesson I learned from 2022, however, is to have realistic expectations regarding tree plantings. No matter what you do, you will lose trees – period. You will have damage – period. “Harm reduction” is the way to go, and may be achieved through selecting native species (preferably) that match site conditions, practicing diligent maintenance and monitoring, and above all being patient. A summary pub on tree planting may be viewed at this link.

 

Trees are worth it – good luck in 2023!

 

Table 1: My 2022 in a nutshell

 

 

Goofed up

Lesson

Didn’t consider my time

Fewer well-established seedlings > more high-risk seedlings

No site prep

Site prep is key. Start early, it may take several treatments

Ordered stock (way) late

It’s OK to delay a season – best to get correct stock

No irrigation plan

Speaks for itself

Shelters from the dumpster

Save time – drop cash, get protective gear in advance

 

Nailed it

Lesson

Local seed source

Helps ensure vigorous seedlings right off the bat

Matched species to site

Select species based on site first, then choose traits you want

Mulch

Moisture retention from mulch saved me in summer

Diligent monitoring

Allows for adaptive management, observation = learning!

Patience

Realistic expectations!

 Photo 1: Trees are resilient – with proper selection, planting, maintenance, and monitoring. Above all, be patient!